Domaine du Cros, Marchillac

Philippe Teulier

The vineyards of Marcillac lie on the Aveyron river just north west of Rodez and are grown on terraces with very steep gradients; the soil is the reddish-purple le rougier with a schist underlay; the grape variety is mansois, otherwise known as fer servadou; only old barrels and traditional methods are used; minimal sulphur is required in the fermentation. The result? Violet-tinted, brilliant fresh reds packed with fresh currant fruits, provocative acidity and a medicinal minerality. The medieval citizens of Rodez used to take Marcillac for their health, because it was preferable to drinking the local water. More recently, Pascal Monestier, the son of a pharmacist in Marcillac, in a thesis on the prevention of cholesterol by the consumption of wine, discovered especially high concentrations of cathecine and procyamidol – anti-cholesterol agents.

Marcillac is a tiny obscure appellation near Clairvaux in Aveyron comprising some eight growers. The wines here are made exclusively from the Mansois grape, otherwise known as Fer or Fer Servadou in Gaillac. Domaine du Cros makes the “Cuvée Speciale” which is from 50-80 year old vines (now called “Vieilles Vignes”) which spend 18 months in old oak casks and expresses myriad black fruits: myrtille, mure and cassis to name but several. The wines are delicious wine so instantly appealing that we unfurl our tongues and allow the flavours to slide silkily across our palates without analysis. Superb with roast lamb and herbs, chicken or pork.